Maintaining your flooded (wet cell) golf cart batteries is the single most important thing you can do to protect your investment. While brands like Trojan are built for durability, even the best lead-acid batteries will fail prematurely if they aren't properly watered, charged, and cleaned.
Follow this essential guide to keep your cart running strong for years.
1. The Golden Rule of Watering: Timing is Everything
Flooded batteries lose water during the charging process through a natural chemical reaction. If the internal lead plates are exposed to air, they will oxidize and permanently lose capacity.
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When to Water: Always add water after the battery is fully charged. As batteries charge, the electrolyte level rises. If you fill them while they are discharged, they will likely overflow and spill acid during the charging cycle.
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The Only Exception: If the water level is so low that the lead plates are already exposed, add just enough water to cover the tops of the plates before you begin charging.
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Use Distilled Water Only: Never use tap water. Tap water contains minerals (like calcium and magnesium) that coat the lead plates and cause "clogging," which significantly shortens battery life.
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Fill Level: Fill each cell until the water level is approximately 1/8 inch below the bottom of the well (the plastic tube that extends into the battery).
2. Smart Charging Habits
Lead-acid batteries do not have a "memory," so you don’t need to run them until they’re dead before charging. In fact, deep discharging is harmful.
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Charge After Every Use: Even if you only played nine holes, plug the cart back in. Batteries stay healthy when they are kept at a high state of charge.
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Avoid the "Red Zone": Try not to let your battery pack drop below 50% capacity. Regularly discharging your batteries to 0% will cut their lifespan in half.
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Ventilation: Charging produces hydrogen gas. Always charge in a well-ventilated area (like an open garage) and keep the seat flipped up if your cart's design allows it to prevent heat and gas buildup.
3. Combatting Corrosion
Over time, a white, crusty powder (sulfation/corrosion) can form on your terminals. This buildup creates resistance, making your motor work harder and your charger less effective.
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The Baking Soda Solution: Mix 1 cup of water with 2 tablespoons of baking soda. Use an old toothbrush or a non-metal brush to scrub the terminals. The baking soda neutralizes the acid. Rinse with clean water and dry thoroughly.
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Tighten Connections: Check your cable connections once a month. They should be "snug" but not over-tightened, which can crack the lead terminal posts.
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Protect: After cleaning, apply a thin layer of petroleum jelly or a dedicated terminal protector spray to the metal connections to seal out moisture and air.
4. Winter Storage Best Practices
If you plan to park your cart for the season, don't just leave it in the garage and forget it.
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Store Fully Charged: A fully charged battery has a much lower freezing point than a dead one. A discharged battery can actually freeze and crack its case in a Houston "blue norther" or colder climates.
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Tow/Run Switch: Flip your cart to "Tow" mode (or disconnect the main negative cable) to prevent "parasitic draw" from the cart’s computer and electronics, which will slowly drain the batteries over 3–4 weeks.
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Refresh Charges: Even when disconnected, lead-acid batteries naturally lose about 1% of their charge per day. Plug the cart in once a month to "top off" the pack during the off-season.
Quick Checklist
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Monthly: Check water levels and clean terminals.
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Daily: Plug it in after use.
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Always: Use safety glasses and gloves when working with battery acid.
